Krakow
is a beautiful medieval city - cobbled streets, hidden alleyways and
lovely cafes. The former Ghetto (The Kazimierz) crawls with
tourists of all nationalities and creeds. In this small
area reminders of Krakow's Jewish past are everywhere. Synagogues,
cemeteries and Talmud Torahs crowd next to each other. Despite this
only two working synagogues remain: a Progressive and an Orthodox.
At
one time Krakow was home to some 60,000 Jews. Today no more than
two hundred remain. The locals have recreated a pastiche of Jewishness. 'Jewish' food (non kosher) is served in 'Jewish' style
cafes, and many establishments have their names written in a style that
mimics Hebrew script. Souvenir shops sell Chassidic dolls of little
old men with comedy haircuts, tallits and playing fiddles - depictions
with which I was not comfortable.
We
had to visit Auschwitz. Take it as read that the place is more than
a little disturbing. The most unnerving aspect for me was completely
unexpected, and that was to see youngsters posing for their
friends'
cameras standing next to assorted unpleasantness with big grins on
their faces. Have sufficient years gone by that Auschwitz is now just
another impersonal museum?
Philip Walker - June 2005
